HIDDEN by MARKS: Scaling architectural light design down to jewellery

HIDDEN by MARKS is a Copenhagen-based fine jewellery brand founded by Mark Smith - an award-winning industrial designer who spent his career creating large-scale light experiences for Swarovski, from Mumbai to London to California, before being appointed Head of Innovation at Swarovski's headquarters in Wattens, Austria.
It was there that the idea took shape: could the principles of architectural light design be translated to the intimate scale of jewellery? The answer became HIDDEN by MARKS. Every piece is crafted in recycled gold and sterling silver with lab-grown diamonds and hand-polished inlaid enamel, made by skilled artisans with the same precision and attention to detail that defined Mark's work at scale.

HIDDEN by MARKS HIDDEN by MARKS

The opening edit

Mark came to us with nothing but sketches on a drawing board. His gift for storytelling and perfectionism shines through in every piece.

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HIDDEN by MARKS works in recycled gold and sterling silver — sometimes set with lab-grown diamonds, sometimes enriched with hand-polished inlaid enamel, sometimes both. The forms are sculptural and minimal, with a faceted complexity that catches and refracts light in the way Mark has always understood best. Every piece, however small, carries the brand's butterfly icon inlaid with enamel — a mark of the craftsmanship detail that is non-negotiable at HIDDEN by MARKS. Standout pieces include the Sun Halo stud earrings, the Iceberg Rings in their many variations, and the Antarctica Ice Ring — 36 brilliant-cut lab-grown diamonds totalling 0.94 carats set in 12 grams of 18k gold with rich inlaid enamel, the fullest expression of what the brand can do. New designs are developed continuously, powered by proprietary co-creation algorithms that allow the brand to expand its collection while maintaining absolute consistency of DNA.

Mark Smith designed the crystal-studded lotus canopy ceiling of the Grand Theatre in Mumbai's Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre before turning his attention to something far smaller and, in his view, just as significant.

Mark describes it as falling in love with stories that can be told through what you wear - even in the smallest, most intimate pieces. It was after moving to Copenhagen and drawing on a network of collaborators, including a specialist in parametric algorithmic design and a former design director from Tiffany's, that he first created the Antarctica collection, inspired by a documentary about the last truly wild place on earth: how light softly contours the landscape of snow and then suddenly becomes a broken, jagged cliff of ice - the collection captures how different experiences of light can be truly dramatic.

The brand launched its full collection of 64 pieces in 2024 and has been growing its following among customers who, in Mark's own words, "have something to say — and say it in the clothes they wear and the jewellery they choose."

The greatest beauty is wild. Imperfection that surprises us with its perfection — in people and in Nature. The pieces I design are not symmetrical, they are unique like the people who collect them.

Mark SmithDesigner & Founder

Mark came to us when his ideas were still just sketches on a drawing board, and asked for our advice as he worked through the process. His inspiration and his look were unlike anything else — you could see it immediately: a background built for conceptualising and storytelling, with a perfectionism that shines through in every piece.

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HIDDEN by MARKS works with lab-grown diamonds, recycled gold, and recycled sterling silver throughout, with eco-friendly packaging across all shipping. The brand's commitment to sustainability extends beyond materials — the Antarctica Collection is a deliberate act of attention to climate change, built on the belief that celebrating and honouring the continent's unique beauty through design can play a role in protecting it.