Introducing Maison Rouvenat: An unexpected jewellery discovery
The story of Rouvenat - in its present form - begins in an antique shop in Paris in 2022, when an extraordinary discovery was made.
Over 100 years earlier, Rouvenat had been one of the most prominent jewellery houses of the 19th century: adorning the European elite with diadems, transformable medallions, and rosette brooches. The house was founded by goldsmith Léon Rouvenat in 1851 - but with no successor, the house closed shortly before World War I.
Fast forward to 2022, when 3,000 of Léon’s own original drawings (along with some of his business partner Christofle’s) were discovered in the Parisian antique shop - all in perfect condition, gathered in 12 leather-bound notebooks. This prompted the re-opening of Maison Rouvenat - 171 years after it first opened its doors.
Today, the house operates out of Paris under the creative direction of Sandrine de Laage. We spoke to Marie Berthelon, co-founder and CEO of Rouvenat, about what it means to revive a maison with real history - and how to take it into the future.
Tell us the story of how Rouvenat came to be relaunched.
"The adventure started with the discovery at a Parisian antique dealer's shop of more than 3,000 historical gouaches signed by Léon Rouvenat. Some of them —- extremely rare — are signed by both Christofle and Rouvenat, as the two men were business partners in the early 19th century. The desire to bring this treasure of French heritage back into the spotlight drives our mission; founded over 170 years ago, our Maison is rooted in the past yet resolutely focused on the future. We also had a deep desire to transform the jewellery industry that we love so much and steer it toward sustainable development. This is why Rouvenat is the first fully circular jewellery house: recycled gold, vintage gemstones, designs inspired by the Second Empire, and upcycled jewellery boxes all add a soul to the heart of our creations."
What was it about Léon Rouvenat's sketches specifically that drew you in?
"We dared to showcase a unique, distinctive, and memorable style inspired by his Second Empire archives. They are incredibly different; very graphical, almost architectural, and set a style beyond a design. Our Creative Director, Sandrine de Laage, immersed herself in the archives before closing them and bringing her creations into the modern era, while staying true to Léon Rouvenat's DNA. Through our inspirations, our creations, and our sourcing, we bring the 'past, present, and future' full circle."
How do you see that history showing up in the pieces being made today?
"At Rouvenat, everything is connected, rooted, yet in motion. The Bolt Collection evokes the famous 19th-century 'Bijou Rosace' without actually resembling it. The Unlock Collection, meanwhile, highlights Léon Rouvenat's 19th-century master's hallmark — the 'Serrure' — within a highly modern design. We never design a piece of jewellery by asking ourselves if it will be fashionable. We ask ourselves if it will still be worn with emotion fifty years from now."
Do you have a piece from the collection you return to personally?
"All of the Rouvenat pieces make me feel special and unique. I have a personal soft point for stones, as much so as all of them carry a unique story. The Frame ring feels very special to me. But I also love to wear the Unlock necklace in mother of pearl on an everyday basis."
Where do you see Rouvenat going from here?
"Our goal is not to be everywhere, but to be in the right places, with the right partners, for special clients. We prioritise sustainable growth over rapid expansion, authentic connections over mass communication. The future of jewellery is no longer about producing more, but about designing well."
A maison founded over 170 years ago, relaunched by people who understood that what Léon Rouvenat left behind was not just an archive but a point of view — one worth building from.
The pieces are architectural where most jewellery is decorative, and rooted in a specific moment in French history that gives them a clarity of reference most contemporary brands can only reach for.
Rouvenat is now available via The Jewellery Room. Explore the collection here.
